Is one of the most impressive peak in the Cordillera Blanca, there are two main routes to the summit; the South East and North East from Santa Cruz valley.
Climbing Season: Between June to last August
days in the Mountain: 4 days or 5 days
Difficult: Technical and require extensive technical ability.
Day 1: Huaraz – drive to Cashapampa – hike to Llamacorral
After the breakfast in the hotel we will aboard in our private bus to go along the Callejón de Huaylas in the north side of Huaraz. passing the different districts such as: Carhuas (2650m/8692ft), Yungay (2500m/8200ft), after this city, we will get the Caraz city (2400m/7872ft), then we will continue our travel to get the last Distrit Cashapampa arriving around 10:00am , where the Donkey Driver will waiting for us to transport our Camping equipments , from here we will start hiking up, after walking 2 hours half we will have lunch, then we will continue hiking up, after hiking up for 5 or 6 hours we will get the first camp named Llamacorral, arriving around 4pm. Overnight camping at (3800m/12464ft).
Day 2: Llamacorral – Jatuncocha Lake – Taullipampa
Today we will hike along the valley moderate enjoying the beautiful lakes called Ichiccocha and Jatuncocha, turquoise lakes, then we will arrive to nice spot where will have lunch at the place called Quisuar, after it we will climb up to the Alpamayo Base Camp, we will get here early and prepare and check our climbing gears for the next day, overnight at (4500m/14760ft).
Day 3: Taullipampa – Moraine Camp – Camp 1 of Artesonraju
This day after the breakfast in the Base Camp (Taullipampa) we will pack our climbing gears to go up to the Camp 1 of Artesonraju, we will climb up for about 5 – 6 hours with porters help, whose will carry our logistics and food, getting the Camp 1 we will have hot drinks and immediately we will check our climbing gears to be ready and start climb the next morning, we will have early dinner, overnight at (5200m/17056ft).
Day 4: Camp 1 – climb up to the summit (6025m/19762ft) – Taullipampa
This day our breakfast will be very early at 01:00hours, then 30 minutes breakfast and we start climbing up around 01:30hours for about 6 to 7 hours climbing up to the summit over (6025m/19762ft), along the way up we will find ice walls about 50 to 80 degrees, after hard climb getting the summit we will enjoy the nice views mountains around, like Piramide de Garcilaso, Caraz, Taulliraju, Pucajirca, Alpamayo, Quitaraju and many more, after that we will start descend rappelling with the Guide help, arriving to the Camp 1 we will rest for some minutes and then we will picks up our tents to continue go down to Taullipampa for about 4 – 5 more hours, overnight at (4500m/14760ft).
Day 5: Taullipampa – hike out Santa Cruz valley – back to Huaraz
Today we will come back walking down hill along the Santa Cruz valley enjoying the nice view of Jatuncocha and Ichiccocha Lake, till Cashapampa, where the transfer will be waiting for us and will have a last stop for lunch, after lunch we will aboard our private transfer to return Huaraz, for about 3 hors half, arriving to Huaraz around 4 to 5:00pm.